Tactical gear is not difficult to look after, but it is easy to destroy. Most gear that fails early does so because of how it was stored, not because of how hard it was used.
Before anything goes in water
Empty every pocket. Remove magazines, batteries, radios, chemlights and anything with electronics. Then close every buckle, zip and hook-and-loop flap. Hook-and-loop left open in a wash is the fastest way to shred the soft side of every other item in the drum - and it collects every bit of lint going.
Brush off dried mud outside first. Wetting mud turns it into an abrasive paste that works into webbing and stitching.
Washing: what is safe
Cordura and nylon webbing gear - vests, pouches, belts, packs - can generally be hand washed in lukewarm water with a mild detergent. Use a soft brush on soiled areas, rinse thoroughly, and air dry away from direct heat. Detergent residue left in the fabric attracts dirt faster afterwards, so rinse properly.
Washing machines are a judgement call. A gentle, cold cycle with no spin is usually survivable for plain webbing items. What should never go near a machine: anything with rigid inserts, moulded Kydex, plastic buckles under load, glued seams, or a waterproof membrane. The drum flexing breaks adhesives and cracks stiffeners long before the fabric wears out.
Never use fabric softener or bleach. Softener coats fibres and reduces water repellency; bleach degrades nylon and fades camouflage unevenly.
Drying, and the mildew problem
Air dry completely - and completely means the padding too. A carrier that feels dry on the outside can still be damp inside the shoulder pads, and that is where mildew starts. Hang items open, upside down if they have padding, in a ventilated space.
Do not dry on a radiator, in a tumble dryer or in direct strong sunlight. Heat degrades coatings and UV fades camouflage fast. If mildew does appear, a diluted white vinegar solution on the affected area before washing deals with it in most cases.
Storage between games
Three rules cover almost everything:
- Store dry and loose. Compressing gear for months permanently creases padding and crushes structured panels.
- Do not store under tension. Straps left pulled tight and buckles left under load slowly deform webbing.
- Keep it out of sunlight. UV is the main cause of faded camouflage and brittle webbing on gear that is otherwise fine.
If you store gear in a garage or a car boot, check it once or twice over winter. Damp storage is by far the biggest killer of equipment that is barely used.
Small maintenance worth doing
Check stitching at load-bearing points - pouch corners, shoulder strap joins, belt attachments - once a season. A few stitches put in early costs nothing; the same tear after a full game is a lost pouch. Replace worn hook-and-loop before it stops holding, and check buckles for hairline cracks, which show up first at the corners.
Recommended from our catalogue
Bags for storage and transport
Frequently asked questions
Can I put my plate carrier in the washing machine?
Hand washing is safer. If you do machine wash, use a cold gentle cycle with everything buckled and closed - and never with rigid inserts or Kydex parts still fitted.
How do I get mildew out of tactical gear?
Treat the affected area with diluted white vinegar, then wash and dry thoroughly. Prevent it by drying padding completely, not just the outer fabric.
Is it safe to dry gear on a radiator?
No. Direct heat degrades coatings and can warp plastic hardware. Air dry in a ventilated space away from heat and sunlight.
Why is the hook-and-loop on my pouches not gripping?
Usually lint and debris packed into the hook side. Clean it out with a stiff brush or a blunt tool, and close flaps before washing to reduce the problem.
Related guides
- Airsoft in Cold and Wet Weather: A Practical Layering Guide
- How to Fit and Adjust a Plate Carrier or Tactical Vest
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